The public outcry and extensive publicity of the horrific mafia actions following the assassinations was, at least, a positive result of heinous crimes. However, in the decade following the murders the Anti-Mafia Pool to which Falcone and Borsellino belonged was dismantled and now, 18 years after the assassinations, it appears that Cosa Nostra is reasserting its former power in the streets of Palermo.

On July 18th this year, statues of Falcone and Borsellino were smashed and toppled in Palermo in an apparent pro-mafia statement which some say is effectively killing them twice (Harris). The act, perpetrated by unknown (read: cowardly) offenders is disappointing and disgusting, but equally disappointing was the low turnout for the anti-mafia rally held every year in honor of the two magistrates. This year roughly 100 Palermitani visibily stood up against the mafia, which betrays in the face of fear what I felt to be a much stronger anti-mafia sentiment in Sicily’s capital.

Borsellino & Falcone Statues Vandalized July 19, 2010

The actions taken by what can only be assumed to be members of Cosa Nostra, or its sympathizers at least, are upsetting not only because of the damage done to the memory of two of Sicily’s most heroic men but also because it signals a renewed arrogance and violence of organized crime in the region. The international reaction to these acts has been swift and vocally abhorrent but we cannot assume that the acts were born as a fluke in a peaceful culture. The vandalism signals a more public resurgence, however small, of mafia activity and could, at worst, be viewed as a hint toward the decided end of support of anti-mafia figures and movements. This vandalism shows how the mafia can and will rear its head and make itself be heard, even on occasions that are distinctly against them.

This power struggle between the Sicilian public and Cosa Nostra is made worse by Berlusconi’s newly proposed “gag law” that would restrict wiretapping and eavesdropping on politicians, and prevent journalists from publishing resulting transcripts (Hooper). Without timely and accurate information about the activities of Sicilian and Italian politicians, the public is at a severe disadvantage in knowing the true culture of the society they are living in. Furthermore, reigning in journalists from reporting political and judicial scandal would drastically limit the public’s ability to respond or organize anti-corruption and anti-mafia movements, as well as seriously deflate anti-mafia sentiment, leading to a continued collective attitude of helplessness. Berlusconi insists that the gag law would not apply to mafia or terrorist groups, but what of the Mafiosi politicians? A good example would be Berlusconi’s former premiere top aide, Sen. Marcello Dell’Utri, a politician who maintained close relations and contact with three Mafia bosses: Stefano Bontade, Salvatore Toto Riina, and Bernardo Provenzano; Riina and Provenzano are known to have been behind the season of slaughter and the particular deaths of Falcone and Borsellino (Harris; Israely). In 2009, Toto Riina broke his omerta to inform prosectutors that members of the Italian state may have been involved in the killing of Paolo Borsellino and it seems that Dell’Utri would be a strong lead given that information (Israely). The question arises: would Dell’Utri then be protected from investigation under Berlusconi’s new law? The connection makes clear the corruption of the Italian state, and further clarifies the potentially ruinous effects of Berlusconi’s new law on essential Mafia investigation.

Berlusconi’s gag law is scheduled for voting in the Italian Parliament next week, on July 29th. Let’s hope that the decision does not further impede Sicilians’ ability to understand the mafia and its perpetual destruction, just as Cosa Nostra itself has succeeded in doing for centuries.

Works Cited

Harris, Judith. “Falcone and Borsellino Die Again.” Italian/American Digital Project: i-Italy. July 19, 2010. http://www.i-italy.org/15141/falcone-and-borsellino-die-again

Israely, Jeff. “A Mafia Boss Breaks Silence on an Assassination.” Time Magazine Online. August 3, 2009. http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1914284,00.html

Willey, David. “Sicilians Commemorate Murdered Judge Paolo Borsellino.” BBC News, Rome. July 19, 2010. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-10692732

Sam is fascinated by Greece like I am with Sicily, so I told him he could not miss the Valley of the Temples. Anticipating a few translation opportunities/emergencies, I happily went along.

The drive down the impossibly narrow streets of Taormina and through the vast middle of Sicily was beautiful and fun. The interior is really so rural that it’s hard to believe living there, at least for me. The isolation would certainly force one to live off the land but would, it seems, really limit exposure to all that the region has to offer.

We arrived at the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento without a problem. You end up winding through more narrow streets catching glimpes over ever-larger temples on the horizon. The temples seems to appear out of nowhere and quickly become the dominating landscape on a ridge that drops off to the Mediterranean. Exciting.

The first temple we visited was the Temple of Hera (c. 450 BCE). This temple has survived landslides, earthquakes, and fires in its 2460 years in existence.

Temple of Hera

We then moved on to the Temple of Concordia (c. 430 BCE), which is the best preserved Greek temple in the world outside of Greece (the Temple of Hephaistos, Athens, is considered the best) and is unique in its rich color and symmetry. We purchased an extra ticket, which turned out to be entirely unnecessary, to enter the temple for a modern art exhibition offered in the interior of the temple. Being able to walk through the massive temple – to fully appreciate the grandeur and scale of the ancient site and see it with a new, improved perspective- was well worth the extra 2 Euro.

Temple of Concordia

Temple of Concordia - Interior

Temple of Concordia - Modern Art

Temple of Concorida - Cella

The Temple of Heracles lies just beyond the Concordia and represents the oldest of the temples in the Valley, having been built in about 500 BCE. I love seeing something new in something I have visited before and noticed a displaced capital on the ground, which helped to reinforce the size temple.

Temple of Heracles

Finally, we made it to the Temple of Olympian Zeus (c. 480 BCE), which was the largest Doric temple known on earth and is my favorite temple in the Valley. The temple is in ruins partly because of earthquakes, but ultimately because of quarrying its pieces for the construction of the Port of Empedocles. This temple was massive: 110.1m by 52.7m, which is a bit larger than a football field, and the telamons that stood between the base and capitals measure approximately 16.7m in height – that’s the equivalent of 5 1/2 stories tall. This would have been an absolutely breathtaking feat of Sicilian construction had it not been carried off to build a port. It does appear that archaeologists are  reexamining the site, as some of the stones have been identified there is a newly discovered and reconstructed telamon on site.

Temple of Olympian Zeus - Telamon Excavation

Temple of Olympian Zeus - Telamon

Temple of Olympian Zeus - Capital

Revisiting the Valley of the Temples was incredibly satisfying. I was thrilled to be able to enter the Temple of Concordia, and to find continued work on the Temple of Zeus. The work being done is encouraging and the inclusion of art exhibitions on the historic site is an interesting marriage between Sicily’s present and its past.

Il Teatro Greco was constructed by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE and renovated by the Romans in the 1st and 2nd centuries ACE. The plan, then, is Greek but the style is Roman. It’s impossible to tell from the photo, but the amphitheatre is carved into the side of a hill in Taormina, impressive in itself, and would have risen above the plateau a couple of stories. Any seat in the house offers an incredible view and the site demands a high quality of performance, given the competition from a looming Etna and the endless water below.

Il Teatro Greco

The site is important not just for its beauty but also because of its historical context. The best Greek plays were preformed here, to educate the public, and Plato developed his theory of forms which would be later found in his Timaeus, a work titled after the Sicilian historian of the same name.

When I told Derek about Plato being so inspired, he mentioned that the information really put things in perspective. I think that the real significance in a site like Il Teatro Greco in Taormina is in its context: historical and contemporary. Today’s tourists can see almost the same sight (given less real estate development) that inspired Plato. Whether one agrees with, appreciates, follows Plato or not, his influence and pervasiveness in Western culture is undeniable. His actively philosophical presence, and the subject of his inspiration, in Sicily does add weight and perspective to Taormina and to the island. In linking Sicily with one of the world’s most canonized thinkers we can better understand the power of the island in its time, and the necessity to appreciate it as a muse and real contributor to history and Western thought.

After some time at the amphitheatre we made our way to lunch and decided to rent a car to see the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.

The Bay of Naxos and Mt. Etna, Taormina

I started my day slowly, with a walk around town and a little shopping. I finally made it to a place called Don Corleone, which I noticed last year and the year before but never had time to check out. The name of the ceramic shop interested me, but also made me skeptical. I am really not a fan of using The Godfather, much as I love the film, to attract attention to and in Sicily. Once I entered I was happy to see “No Mafia” t-shirts and some really captivating ceramic art. I didn’t take photos of the work but a lot of it displayed an interesting reflection of the island’s image. i was able to get one photo of a door, which hopefully demonstrates the style a bit.

Don Corleone, Taormina

During siesta I finished Sicily as a Metaphor, an interview with one of Sicily’s most important writer/social commentators Leonardo Sciascia (credit: Mirta Salomon). I had a little chat with some women who were visiting for the first time and told them what they should see, played some soccer with little kids, and insisted on speaking Italian in one of the bars on the street.

Everyone is asking me where I am studying, assuming Bologna, which is giving me a lot to think about…

For dinner, I met Derek and his friend, now mine, Sam. I spoke English extensively for the first time in a week. It was really great to catch up with an old friend and make a new one, and exciting to show them a place I loved so much and that they would probably not have visited.

Dinner was another patio-panorama place with seafood and pasta. Traveling alone creates a very different dining experience in that the staff is usually interested in who you are and why you are there, alone. An American trio is more anonymous and less interesting, I think. Another thing: the staff in Taormina are not as welcoming as they are in Palermo. In Palermo, everyone starts off suspicious but I have found that that may only be the case because of the warm character of the people – it’s like i Palermitani are protecting their robust welcome until they are sure someone will appreciate it. In Taormina, the people are somewhat detached, which I think has a lot to do with the resort nature of the town.

In any case, we had a good meal and great conversation that was fully comprehensible. We made plans to go to il Teatro Greco tomorrow morning, which I am thrilled to shock them with.

I arrived in Taormina at the bus terminal with two very skittish Belgian women. Our bus driver set us up with Daniele, a fun Sicilian cab driver who gave me a deep discount on my cab ride for talking with him (in Italian) about Frank Sinatra.

Side note: Sicily adores Frank Sinatra.

I took a familiar walk from my hotel to Corso Umberto, which is the main street in town. The street is situated between Porta Messina and Porta Catania and offers some excellent high-end shopping and dining. I chose a place with a patio and panoramic views of the bay and, while it was pitch black on the water, it was kind of nice to be faced with nothing rather than feeling the constant urge to peek into every open church, like I did in Palermo.

I came to Taormina to relax and reflect on my time in Palermo. In the last two years I have viewed Taormina as much-needed retreat from the dirt and grime of Palermo. In my third year in Sicily, I missed Palermo but I had a leisurely walk and the arrival of my friends, Derek and Sam, to look forward to.

A Street in Taormina

It started to sprinkle, like a sun shower, at the tail end of my espresso. I returned to the Cloister and immediately felt the pre-thunderstorm chill. The Cloister was absolutely freezing. Remember, the aisles have not seen the sun since being completed at the end of the 12th century. I wrapped my scarf all around my head and sat alone in the dark and frigid cloister. The sight was actually pretty incredible and it felt like the whole sky was just pouring into this 155×155’ box. I tried to take some photos but I’m not sure they convey the real wrath of the sky. And the echo! The echo of the thunder in the Cloister was insane. It sounded like war and tumbled down the aisles like a horse would.

Thunder in Monreale

I must have looked like a Benedict fanatic or something, with my scarf wrapped all around my head and curled up in the corner reading my notes from the Salvini book on the Cloister, because I got a very suspicious look from a woman who works there. She walked by me and looked confused as to why I would still be there and probably wondering what on earth I was doing there for hours. Note: having stayed there for hours, I noticed that everyone, even tour groups with a knowledgeable guide, spend approximately half an hour in the Cloister. This is way too little time and they literally run past some of the more interesting capitals. No one even looks at the mosaics seriously – they are constantly focused up, at the capitals, and never consider the little pieces that make the whole place glitter.

The rain was intense, but it only lasted about 15 minutes. The sun began to defeat the clouds and I felt lucky to have weathered the (literal) storm to see the Cloister sort of wake up and begin to shine again, prettier than before.

Monreale after the Rain

Before I left I ended up making friends with the suspicious woman, Francesca, who I learned is the custodian of the Cloister. We took a little walk around the Cloister and I pointed out my favorite capital, as well as some of my observations (coming soon, I promise), which she had never noticed. She told me that the Cloister of Monreale was a candidate for UNESCO protection, which would be a great indication of its importance and hopefully assist in the preservation efforts.

I returned to Palermo with enough time to go to the Galleria Regionale, which is Palermo’s contemporary art museum. Here I saw “Il Triofono delle Morte,” which is a fresco painted in 1446 by an unknown artist. In case you’re wondering, Picasso painted Guernica in 1937. Before being moved to the Galleria this Il Triofono was on a prominent wall in the Hospitale di Palermo. That’s right: a hospital. That is the Sicilian psychology, according to the tour guide I was creeping on.

Il Triofono delle Morte. Palermo, 1446

I had a chance to see Antonello da Messina’s La Annunciata, which is incredible and unlike any other work depicting the annunciation. Unfortunately, my camera died just as I was attempting a photo so here is one from the internet:

La Annunciata. Antonello da Messina, 1475

The guide in the museum pointed out that unlike other annunciation scenes, Antonello da Messina uses a point of natural light, not divine, which is in the style of Flemish artists, and does not include any hint of an angel. Instead, this Madonna is listening to her own internal voice telling her of her fate. She seems to also be truly considering the news and bearing the weight rather than being shocked or scared or confused like some other Madonnas seem to suggest. This Madonna is mature and thoughtful and a strong woman, which I like. Antonello da Messina, who was one of the first Italian artists to master oil painting (according to the guide) which is in turn remarkable since he was never in the Netherlands, is gifted with the ability to arrest the viewer’s attention with what appear to be simple portraits. His portraits are, in fact, complex and realistic while still conveying ideal concepts – like the human pain of Christ, or the overwhelming responsibility of Mary.

I was happy to have found and visited La Galleria Regionale, but as I left I became even happier: I knew where I was!

Leaving the museum, I realized I was parallel to Via Roma and decided to continue on the north side of the city, near the port. The port is very round and as I approached the top (which is actually the most southern point) of the half-rotary street, I realized exactly where I was: the same place where I felt so lost on Day 1! I continued up the street, towards what I now knew would be Via Roma and ended up at Piazza San Domenico. The glory, pride, pure joy that I felt upon finally understanding Palermo’s streets is indescribable.

I made my way back to my hotel on wings and then got ready for dinner. I decided to go back to Il Culinario (the orange place) to see my new friends. We talked a lot in Italian and I learned that it’s not always the speed of the words, but the speed at which subjects change in Palermo that makes the language so difficult. I would literally be answering one question and already I was behind because the subject had changed from what I want to study to Marcello Mastroianni (not the worst change in subject).

I got a little information from Giuseppe and Giacomo, 23 and 26 respectively, on La Mafia, which was valuable. They were quite open about it being a big problem, especially for the image of Palermo and Sicily, but Giuseppe pointed out that Palermo and Cosa Nostra are inseparable – the history of the city is the history of the mafia. Still, they hate that that is all Americans and the rest of the world know. They, and Silvo – the owner, were thrilled to hear that I am a fan of Sicily, of Palermo, and i Palermitani. Somewhat shocked, but happy. I Palermitani are truly some of, if not the, warmest (after suspicious) people I have ever encountered. Given a chance, they will help you in any way possibe, feed you well, and accompany you home if it’s dark.

True to form, Giacomo and his friend, now mine as well, Christina offered to take me to my hotel. I accepted and on the way we decided to have un po di cafe. After an espresso we went to Mondello, where Giacomo and Christina showed me the prettiest street in Palermo, “La Favorita,” and the grande ville of Mondello. It was a beautiful drive, enhanced by the blasting Italian pop from Giacomo’s new speakers, and we concluded our giro piccolo (little trip) with gelato at Giacomo’s uncle’s place.

Giacomo e Christina. Palermo, 3/16/2010

In all, my last full day in Palermo was bellissimo. For the first time I am sad to leave and I am already thinking of ways to come back very soon. Palermo is at first glance, a poor city but upon closer inspection it is truly rich in its history, its culture, and in the beautiful and passionate character of its people. Grazie mille a Palermo ed ai miei amici nuovi per 5 giorni perfetti!!

I started my day headed to the illusive Oratorio di San Lorenzo, which I was convinced I had been before and yet had never been able to find. True to form, I missed the street I was supposed to turn onto and had to re-route. I ended up in a better position than I thought, as overshooting the street put me on a more direct path to the hidden oratorio.

I did learn a valuable lesson on my way: don’t use sidewalks in Palermo. I was THIS CLOSE to being defecated on by what appeared to be a large pigeon with a relative appetite. It was gross but my grandmother told me that such an experience means good luck, so I walked on in optimism.

I found myself venturing down Via Paternostro, which is exactly where I needed to be. I stopped to get my bearings and, while snapping a few photos of La Chiesa di San Francesco, I noticed Via Merlo. Now, I had studied my little map so often to try and figure out how I once again missed San Lorenzo that Via Merlo was permanently stamped on my brain. I turned left and there was San Lorenzo! I definitely had not been to this oratorio before, but that’s better right?

La Chiesa di San Francesco

The oratorio itself is simpler than that of Santa Cita but has some really skilled stucco work by Giacomo Serpotta, completed at the height of his career. Of course, there are no photos allowed but as the nice attendant lady left me alone for a good ten minutes, and since photography does no harm to stucco, I snapped away. First win of the day! I was especially impressed with the delicately textured trees in the teatrini, which are posted here.

Serpotta, Oratorio di San Lorenzo

Serpotta, Oratorio di San Lorenzo

I was so happy to have found the oratorio that I decided to take the smaller streets to the Oratorio di Santa Cita. Note: smaller streets in Palermo are definitely not the way less traveled. On my way I encountered the most fragrant street on earth thanks to the vendors selling fruit, fish, meat, herbs, perfumes, bread, and sweets. I breathed deeply, bought some sunglasses, and continued to La Piazza di San Domenico.

Frutta

I have passed the Piazza di San Domenico many times in my trips back and forth from sites, dinners, and being lost. Having not passed directly in front of the church before, today was the first time I noticed  La Societa’ Siciliana per la Storia Patria. The door, which was slightly ajar, had signs that indicated a library, a cultural center, and a dedication to Sicilian history. Therefore, I was compelled to enter. I met the Secretary General of the organization, Signore Salvatore Savoia, who told me that I was in an archive of Sicilian historical texts and it was adjacent to a cloister. After a little chat, he permitted me to see the closed cloister. While we strolled through the Normanesque aisle, and then the Baroque aisle, I told him about my interest in Sicily and asked if the archives were public (they are!). I think he liked me because he offered to give me a tour of the monuments and art work in the building, and I took it gladly.

The museum has some work appreciating the Norman era, but is strongly geared towards Garibaldi-love. I have been trained to dislike Garibaldi, and my own reading has somewhat confirmed my training, so I am a little surprised that the Sicilians are so fond of him. Didn’t he leave them in the dust? Wasn’t Sicily sort of forcibly introduced into an alliance with a somewhat hostile continent because of him? Still, my tour was great and interesting, and I am happy to have seen one of Palermo’s archives. Big grin there.

Il Chiostro di San Domenico

La Societa' per la Siciliana Storia Patria, Archivi

La Trinacria Bella

I left my new friend Salvatore to get to Santa Cita by 12:00PM. I made it, and after some banging on a few doors I found an open one where I encountered another new friend, Gian (his full name was difficult to pronounce let alone remember). He thought I was French before he thought I was American, which is interesting, and also told me that for 4 euro I could see five sites! Gian took me to the Chiesa di Santa Cita, where I saw some impressive (if overwhelming) marmi misti, and then to Santa Cita. In Santa Cita he let me take as many photos as I wanted, which is absolutely unheard of and a real treat. I mean, I was armed with euro to pay someone off for the these shots. We also started a nice conversation in Italian, which was good practice. Gian is 27, so it was also nice to talk to someone my age. We moved on to San Giorgio, a Baroque-styled church, and Santa Maria di Valverde for more marmi misti, and finally the Oratorio of San Domenico. Gian watched the door at San Domenico while I took a photo of get this: every one of Serpotta’s virtues. YES.

Serpotta, Il Battaglio di Lepanto. Oratorio di Santa Cita

Serpotta, I Putti e Le Donne. Oratori di Santa Cita

Serpotta, Fortitudo. Oratorio di San Domenico

I walked along Via Roma, finally feeling like I pretty much know what I’m doing, and headed up Via Bara all’Olivella – my favorite street in the neighborhood. I had lunch at Dal Pompiere: fresh spaghetti, spicy pomodoro and mussels prepared by Pino, a Sicilian who loves Sicily and literally shouts about it in the street. This neighborhood is turning out to be a better choice than I had originally thought and I am enjoying exploring all of its myriad offerings.

After lunch I went for an afternoon walk to the Cattedrale di Palermo, which was closed, and back again, stopping at Il Rintocco for a cappuccino. It was an excellent day, filled with a nice balance of intense learning and Sicilian indulgence of quiet moments.

When I got back to the hotel I found a large group of American senior citizens looking for the Soup, Salad & Breadstick special in Sicily. Nina, who was drunkenly demanding her eyeliner and lipstick, was especially funny. Molly, who was sipping her scotch (at 7:30PM. athankya) was a tiger. I don’t mind being mistaken for French.

Finally, I had a great conversation with the Americans’ tour guide, Rita, who shares a deep love of Sicily and the Sicilian spirit.

Things learned today:
Dresses work wonders, but should probably be used sparingly.
Smoking in the archives is not a good idea, though it’s probably been done for centuries.
Walking into open doorways can prove to be incredibly fruitful.
Sometimes, it pays to be the last tourist in line – special consideration and fewer restrictions.
Italian television is the single biggest detriment to the country’s productivity: addicting!

I got my ticket (8.5E for the royal compartments and Cappella Palatina) and made my way up the familiar stairs. There was a school group there when I arrived, which was absolutely  fantastic to me.

Walking into this little chapel covered in mosaics was energizing and inspiring. This was the first place that I had actually been able to gain admittance to (it being normal operating hours) and I felt sort of initiated in my journey to find, document and appreciate Sicilian art.  The Cappella Palatina is the earliest of the Norman-sponsored mosaic works, having been commissioned by Roger II c. 1132-40, and its splendor has rendered it a jewel of Arab-Norman artwork from the period [1]. Indeed, there are a significant number of Eastern influences in this chapel – from the colorfully patterned dress of some of the angels, to the Arabesque domes that provide background scenery for the mosaic tales of the lives of St. Peter and St. Paul.

While I was spinning about on a mosaic high, I was approached by two young girls, maybe  14 years old, who spoke very quickly to me in Italian. They quickly realized that I was not Italian but I asked them to speak slowly and I would try to understand them. At this point, one of the girls proceeded to give me a tour and a lecture on the choir of the chapel! This was like a dream come true. She pointed out the Byzantine zig-zag styling of the columns, the realistic crafting of the putti on top of the coulmns, and the symbolism of animals in the chapel.

She then passed me on to a little boy, who I can’t imagine was older than 12, and he lectured me on the mosaic portraits of Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul above the Norman throne, in the back of the chapel. He also pointed out the ceiling, which is covered in muqarnas and reinforces the Middle-Eastern influences in the Cappella, and in Sicily during the Norman era.

Cappella Palatina, Muqarnas

I was then passed on to the girl who had originally approached me and she lectured me on the mosaic stylings of the apse. She pointed out the three portraits of Christ, noting which were more liberally styled, and brought my attention to the Byzantine and Arabic style of clothing on the angels surrounding the pantokrator.

Main Pantokrator

Angles in the Cuppola

Absolutely blown away by these kids’ knowledge, I asked how she knew all of this information. She told me that she and her classmates had the option to study the monuments of Palermo at the Verdi School, and part of it was to give little impromtu tours at popular sites. I asked if she knew of Monreale, and she did, which was absolutely heart-warming. I love that there is an opportunity for students to learn and people the mouth pieces of their own history. The kind of scholarship and passion that I saw in the kids I met today is exactly what I want to eventually support and develop in my own endeavors in Sicily. They were truly inspiring and are easily, only three days in, a highlight of my trip.

I left the Cappella Palatina and set out for Monreale. Bus ticket: check. Bus stop: check. The #389 dropped me in front of the Cattdrale di Monreale, which was excellent, but I made a quick right to the entrance of the Cloister. The woman in this ticket office spoke to me in Italian (mine was much improved in the hour and a half between ticket offices) and even enthusiastically granted me a free ticket because of my student ID and my interest in history and art!

At this juncture I will pause because my experience at Monreale was fantastic and it requires more time and thought to pull together the little bits of information I gathered – which is precisely what I plan to do in Taormina. The Monreale post(s) will also be photo-heavy, so there’s something shiny to look forward to.

In the meantime, know that I completely geeked out, taught some Italians a thing or two about the Cloister, and made a date to return – hopefully with a tour guide I can quiz.

To wrap up, I had lunch overlooking Palermo and the ocean, made my way back to Palermo without incident, and walked back to my hotel slowly during siesta. The city was warming up, getting sunny, and feeling very sleepy around 2PM, which was really lovely and made me like Palermo a little more. I also took a cue and enjoyed a little siesta myself. Now I am off to maybe have a gelato.  La Vita Siciliana!

Cattedrale di Palermo - Gorgeous in the Sun

1. Grady, Ellen. Blue Guide: Sicily. London: Somerset Books. 2006

There is one element of Sicily that has seemed to succeed in drowning the island, and that is the Mafia. I say that the Mafia has drowned Sicily not because it is a fact, as I believe strongly that there is a future for Sicily beyond its corruption, but because it overshadows any other aspect of Sicily to the rest of the world. However, it seems that Sicilians are beginning to surface from beneath the mafia:

Sitting in a caffeteria, Il Rintocco for a cappuccino and a snack before entering Il Museo Archeologico, I noticed a shirt for sale that had big orange X on it and said: CONTRO IL PIZZO! CAMBIA I CONSUMI! I asked the owner of the cafeteria to tell me about the phrase. She responded that to explain it would be difficult but after I showed real interest she accommodated me. She told me that there was an organization called ADDIOPIZZO leading the movement in Sicily to identify the shops that refused to pay il pizzo. Il pizzo is the fee (racket) that shops have historically paid to the mafia for “protection.” Today I think il pizzo is certainly more like an insurance policy against the mafia itself. The shirt asks to check where you shop and to change where you shop if it isn’t obvious or secure that they do not pay il pizzo. Shops can display an orange X sticker which identifies them as defiant of the mafia, which I think is exceedingly brave in Palermo.  Il Rintocco  is the only shop I noticed with an orange X but I’m going to keep an eye out. Check out ADDIOPIZZO: http://www.addiopizzo.org

Il Rintocco, Via dell'Orologio, 14

I bought a shirt:

ADDIOPIZZO!

PAGO CHI NON PAGA means I’ll pay those who don’t pay.

On the back is the symbol of ADDIOPIZZO, with the assertion that I am a critcal consumer. To be truthful, I won’t be wearing this shirt in Palermo but I was happy to buy it and support what I consider to be an excellent cause. I hope I see more oranges X’s around the city.

ADDIOPIZZO

The hat I am wearing, called a coppola, is also significant. A coppola is a cap that has been traditionally worn by the Mafia. They originated in the fields of feudal Sicily and men who wore them were considered “good men,” in the “honorable” sense of the word, and “honorable” in the mafioso sense of the word. There is a movement in Sicily, more subversive than Addio Pizzo, to take back la coppola as a cap and not an identifying object of the mafia. It seems like a small thing, but that Sicilians are reclaiming something so simple and yet so symbolic of the culture to the rest of the world (watch The Godfather II – coppole!) is an act of defiance towards the mafia. This is a brave statement and I don’t think it should be taken lightly. To add to the defiance, the coppole are now made in more colors than the traditional black or grey. Sicilians are removing the negative significance of the coppola by decorating them, painting them, and making them out of patterend fabrics. I bought a patterned one from LUAN – an adorable little shop near Il Rintocco.

Oh – I asked for directions to Il Museo Archeologico. It’s closed until 2012! Sicilyyy.

Had dinner at an Arabic place tonight – Abuawas Pub – for a little historical significance to end my day. This is fresh pasta with swordfish and eggplant in a tomato and mint sauce.

Pasta Fresca con Spada, Melanzana e Menta (Fresh Pasta with Swordfish, Eggplant and Mint)

Today I was disappointed by the rain and Il Museo Archeologico, but I was really delighted to learn about ADDIOPIZZO. To me, it’s better than another Roman bronze or even a contemporary painting. I’m excited for Sicily and the movement.

I also came away from today, a day spent wandering in the same small neighborhood, liking Palermo. Never before have I liked Palermo or been impressed by its offerings beyond the ancient and medieval, but as I left a delicious meal and lively, warm restaurant behind I felt the city growing on me. It’s tough: Palermo is dirty, half-bombed, slippery when wet, and sites of historic interest close way too early. Nonetheless, I am enjoying working my way through the street and neighborhoods and realigning my internal compass to Palermo’s parameters.

A presto!

]]> http://findingsicily.wordpress.com/2010/03/13/sicilia-da-sola-day-2/feed/ 0 Miranda Il Rintocco ADDIOPIZZO ADDIOPIZZO1 Abunawas Pasta http://findingsicily.wordpress.com/2010/03/13/sicilia-da-sola-day-1/ http://findingsicily.wordpress.com/2010/03/13/sicilia-da-sola-day-1/#comments Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:59:28 +0000 Miranda http://findingsicily.wordpress.com/?p=73 ]]> I arrived in Palermo happy. Surprisingly so. Not 24 hours before my first solo adventure to Sicily I was losing my mind over the research not done, the bags not packed, the Italian not spoken. I thought going to Sicily alone was the worst idea I had ever had. However, I pulled it together and got on a plane with a bag full of reading, some clothes, my camera and my laptop. It was nice to be spoken to in Italian on the plane , and to respond in a way that solicited more Italian rather than a quick switch to English.

Getting to Palermo was easy – I’ve done that before – getting on the right bus to the right place was my first mini-challenge. Luckily, the bus was obvious and once again I found myself proficient enough to get proper information regarding bus stops. Small victories. The bus stopped in Piazza Politeama, which is just down the street from my hotel. My hotel, the Mercure, is yet another place where I established my desire to speak only Italian. The front desk staff, of course, knows me as an impostor but they are kind enough to play along.

I got in at about 4PM and, after a quick shower in the largest shower in Itay, I took off to get a lay of the land. I wrote myself a few directions in a black moleskin so as not to be such an obvious tourist but that quickly proved futile. More on that in a minute.

I started out walking down Via Roma, on my way to Corso Vittorio Emanuele which I knew would bring me to Piazza Indipendeznza which, in turn, is where I will be catching the bus to Monreale. Via Roma was somewhat familiar to me and as I passed Via Valvedere I was immediately aware of where I was: La Oratorio di Santa Cita. Perfetto! I made what I thought was a small detour to check up on a favorite stop. I was thrilled to have correctly identified the street and have found the Oratorio, and I thought that a solo adventure in Sicily was actually the best idea I had ever had.

The Sicilian flag flies over the tattered Italian flag. Just an observation.

Instead of following my few purple-penned directions, I carried on towards a Baroque-style church and found a small piazza where I inquired about a cap with an old man. I think I am so obviously American in Italy because I am shy. I don’t talk a lot in shops but the Italians talk constantly. They’re talking to everyone: to me, to the shopkeeper, to their friends, and probably to their enemies. I am silent and therefore American, but I like to think that I am the preferable type of American.

I ended up at the port. How, I don’t know. My internal compass, developed over the course of 4 years in NYC, was completely off. Plus, the water is north here – not east or west like I am used to. The port was somewhat lively at around 6PM. The fisherman were cleaning up after a day of selling and some small trattorie were beginning to open for apertif. I made my way back to Via Roma and found Corso Vittorio Emanuele, where I took a left and counted six streets until I took a right, where San Lorenzo, another Serpotta spot, was supposed to be. I didn’t find it but continued because the street curves back around to meet Via Roma. Of course, I never met Via Roma again and somehow made  it to the Stazione Centrale. The Stazione Centrale is deceptively central. It is not at all central to my interests and is in fact quite out of the way. I decided to find Corso Tukory until Corso Re Ruggero, which would surely lead me to Il Palazzo dei Normanni. Not so! I had no idea for a long time what street I was on but it was interesting. What I saw was, I think, a bit of the life Palermitano. The shops were practical and the street was bustling with people completing their menu planning for the evening. I finally took out my map and tried to figure out where I was – only to find I had ventured off the map. I asked an exceedingly nice woman where to go and she said, basically, back the way I came, then left at the fork. On my way back I took some pictures of fish and met the fishermen, who thought it was nice but crazy to come to Palermo alone. Crazier to think Sicily is beautiful and interesting. Following the woman’s directions, I found Corso Tukory and decided to follow that instead of going straight back to Corso Vittorio Emanuele. While I did find the remnants of Mercato Ballaro’ Corso Tukory was in general a silly choice. Finding myself on a highway in the Basile neighborhood, I decided to take a bus. An old man offered me his bus card but I refused and it was a good thing, too, because when the bus did eventually come it didn’t stop. Traveling to Sicily alone was the worst idea I had ever had.

I followed the bus route until, across the highway, I saw Il Palazzo dei Normanni! I cannot express how happy I was to see that huge building rising above the highway litter, or to be back on track. From Il Palazzo dei Normanni, I can easily find Il Cattedrale di Palermo, and from there Il Teatro Massimo. I found these landmarks without too much trouble, except for getting a little turned around west of the Quattro Canti (but having learned my lesson, changed my direction immediately and did not allow the many, many interesting churches/palazzi distract me from my course). From Il Teatro Massimo I sought out to find dinner at around 9PM.

Il Palazzo dei Normanni - Finalmente!!

Dinner was at place painted in orange, I don’t remember the name, near a place I had been before. By the way, I suspect that this will be the way to describe Palermo from here on out. Street names and maps are unreliable here. I made friends at dinner, having my book taken away by the owner. My friends were from Rome and they love Sicily too! The man, Paolo, is a restorer of library documents, I think, and his friend, a woman whose name I didn’t get, was lovely. I also somehow got the business card of the direcor of the Banco di Sicilia. By the end of dinner I was engaged to Giacomo, the pizza guy, and had a date for lunch on Monday.

Some things I learned on my first day/night in Palermo:
Palermo is difficult – it makes you work to know it.
Muscle memory is essential but helpful only to a point.
Maps are unreliable but people are friendly and knowledgeable.
Streets named after famous Italians mean nothing.
Streets named after other cities mean something.
Dinner is something to indulge in for as long as it takes to get invited back.
Coming to Sicily alone was the best idea I ever had.